Moccasin shoe and blank for making same



June 20, 1967 R. J. POTVIN 3,325,921

MOCCASIN SHOE AND BLANK FOR MAKING SAME Filed March 30, 1964 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Eng. 1.

Izwezzfoai- Riooacaid J: Powm, y 770% 343285 June 20, 1967 R. J. POTVIN MOCCASIN SHOE AND BLANK FOR MAKING SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 30, 1964 12 flii'or neg dJPoi by $7M 17/ W IawenZ'oa' Patented June 20, 1967 3,325,921 MOCCASIN SHOE ASND BLANK FOR MAKING AME Richard J. Potvin, Brockton,

Potvin Shoe Company, Inc., chusetts Filed Mar. 30, 1964, Ser. No. 355,536 4 Claims. (Cl. 36-11) Mass., assignor to R. J. a corporation of Massa- This invention relates to the manufacture of moccasin shoes, and pertains more particularly to shoes of the type havinga smooth, closed bottom, with no creases or overlaps, described in my previous Patent No. 2,859,543.

The shoe described in the aforesaid patent is made from an upper blank in the shape of a long strip, which forms the bottom, toe wall, and quarters of the upper, and has a typical moccasin plug sewn in to complete the forepart. The principal object of this invention is to provide a shoe construction which has a seamless one-piece vamp giving the shoe the more formal appearance of a welt shoe, and yet includes the advantages of a smooth, closed moccasin bottom. Other objects include ease and accuracy of manufacture in quantity production. Still other objects, advantages and novel features will be apparent from the following description.

The upper of the shoe here described may be made from a single blank, or, in the case of an oxford which requires a tongue, a vamp blank to which quarter blanks are attached at the sides. In either case, the flap upper has side portions with sole flaps disposed at an acute angle to one another about 45 to 55, and curved forward margins. The sole flaps have curved forward edges. The forward margin of the blank has a number of shallow notches disposed in such a manner that the combined length of margin portions left between the notches is somewhat greater than the combined length of the forward edges of the sole flaps. The forward margin is sewn to these forward edges, the notches being closed in the process, and the side margins of the side portions are sewn together to close the bottom of the upper. The shoe is then lasted, and completed in the usual manner.

In the drawings illustrated in the invention:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a blank for the vamp of an oxford shoe constructed according to the invention;

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the vamp blank of FIG. 1 assembled with the quarter portions of the upper;

FIG. 3 is a plan view of a modified blank for making the entire upper of a sandal type of shoe in one piece;

FIG. 4 is an enlarged bottom view of a shoe made from the blank of FIG. 1, prior to attachment of the outer sole; and

FIG. 5 is a side elevation of a completed shoe, the toe portion being shown partly in cross-section.

The vamp blank of FIG. 1, generally indicated by the numeral 10, consists of a forepart 11, having an arcuate front margin 11a, sole flaps 12 and 13, and a tongue 14. The blank is died out in the usual manner from a sheet of leather or other material customarily used for shoe uppers. The forward edges 12a and 13a of the sole flaps are curved and extend forward from their junctions with margin 11a. The side margins 12b and 13b of the flaps are at an acute angle, approximately 45 to 55 to one another. A number of shallow V-sha-ped notches 15 are cut in the front margin 11a. The notches are spaced so as to leave edge portions 11b which lie on a curve. The combined length of all the edge portions 11b is slightly larger than the combined length of edges 12a and 13a. Preferably the combined length of the edge portions 11b between the center point A and points B is related to the lengths B to C in the manner described in my previous Patent No. 2,859,543. The relationship is defined by the formula:

are AB 6+selecte3g shoe size the lengths of the arcs referred to being measured in inches.

To complete the upper, a pair of quarter blanks 18 and 19 are stitched to the margins 16 and 17 of blank 10 and partly overlie the tongue. The quarter blanks have sole flaps 20 and 21 which line up with flaps 12 and 13. The toe seam 22 is formed by closing notches 15 and sewing the edge portions 1115, on either side of point A, to edges 12a and 13a respectively, in butting relationship with a zigzag stitch. Preferably leather softener is applied to margin 11:: and the toe seam is sewn while the leather is still damp.

Because of the spring created by drawing edge portions 11b together, the toe seam lies well back of the feather line of the toe of the shoe, as illustrated in FIG. 4. The notches are shallow enough so that they do not extend to the feather line in the finished shoe. The toe seam is smooth and flat with no overlie.

To complete the upper assembly, the edges of flaps 12 and 13 and 20 and 21 are joined by a butt seam 23, and edges 18a and 19a are joined to close the heel. A heel stay 24 may be applied and any finishing, binding and lining operations may be performed in the usual man ner. The completed upper is lasted and an outsole 25 attached.

The blank shown in FIG. 3 is intended to form the entire upper of a sandal, and consists of a forepart 26, quarter portions 27 and 28, sole flaps 29 and 30, and a narrow tongue 31. The margins 29b and 30b of the sole flaps diverge at-approximately 45. The toe seam forming portions, margin 26a in which notches 32 are cut, and forward edges 30a and 290, are all cut in the same configuration and dimensional relation as the corresponding portions of the blank of FIG. 1 previously described. The upper is assembled by sewing the toe seam, center seam and heel seam in the same manner, and the shoe is finished by attaching straps and buckles, an outer sole, and any desired reinforcing or lining pieces. By suitably shaping the portions which become the top margin of the upper, other styles of shoes, such as pumps and ankle straps, can be made with the toe and bottom construction here disclosed.

This construction provides the flexibility, comfort and wearing qualities of a full moccasin shoe, but has a seamless vamp which is desirable for dress or formal styles. The bottom has no overlapping parts and no transverse seams under the weight bearing area to irritate the foot. The completed upper seats itself correctly on the last, and no pulling over operation is required. This construction thus ensures accuracy, uniformity and economy in shoe production.

It is understood that the upper may be lined either partially or all over, and the term upper material as used herein is intended to include a lined as well as an unlined upper.

What is claimed is:

1. A moccasin shoe having a forward featherline and comprising an upper having a one-piece vamp portion, a quarter portion, and a bottom portion, said bottom portion having a single transverse curved toe seam disposed adjacent and to the rear of said feather line, said vamp portion having notches along the forward side of said toe seam, said notches being disposed radially with respect to the seam and being fully closed, and said bottom portion being completely closed and formed throughout of a single layer of the upper material.

2. A moccasin shoe as described in claim 1, said upper comprising a singlepiece of material including said vamp portion and quarter portions.

3. A moccasin shoe as described in claim 1, said upper, said vamp portion and quarter being separateipieces joined together.

4. A blank for forming a moccasin shoe comprising a forward vamp portion, quarter forming portions extending sidewardly and rearwardly from either side of said vamp forming portion and disposed at an acute angle with respect to one another and including bottom forming flaps, said vamp forming portion having a curved forward margin with a number of spaced notches therein, said flaps having curved forward edges, and said margin having edge portion between said notches of a combined length somewhat longer than the forward edges of said flaps.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,959,892 5/1934 Anderson 12-142X 2,076,285 4/1937 Wiggin 36l1 2,645,042 7/1953 Stritter -2 36-11 2,859,543 11/1958 Potvin 36-11 FOREIGN PATENTS 3,170 4/1904 France. 363,972 5/1906 France.

PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner. 

1. A MOCCASIN SHORE HAVING A FORWARD FEATHERLINE AND COMPRISING AN UPPER HAVING A ONE-PIECE VAMP PORTION, A QUATER PORTION, AND A BOTTOM PORTION, SAID BOTTOM PORTION HAVING A SINGLE TRANSVERSE CURVED TOE SEAM DISPOSED ADJACENT AND TO THE REAR OF SAID FEATHER LINE, SAID VAMP PORTION HAVING NOTCHES ALONG THE FORWARD SIDE OF SAID TOE STEAM NOTCHES BEING DISPOSED RADIALLY WITH RESPECT TO THE SEAM AND BEING FULL CLOSED, AND SAID BOTTOM PORTION BEING COMPLETELY CLOSED AND FORMED THROUGHOUT OF A SINGLE LAYER OF THE UPPER MATERIAL. 